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The River Exe is Devon's main river, draining a very large part of the county. It rises on Exmoor and flows south for over 50 miles to the sea at Exmouth. The river now includes numerous weirs, all of which are shootable with care and skill in normal water conditions, but which get bigger and potentially more dangerous nearer to Exeter. Many of these weirs have holding stoppers which can be very strong in high water conditions so portages are often advisable. Most of the river between weirs is only grade two, but at high flows it can easily be classified as a grade three river, with the added problems of numerous trees and other potentially dangerous obstacles. It should not be attempted in flood. Unusually for a major fishing river there is no footpath following the river bank. Instead, it runs through private fields so access and egress can only occur at the points described below, many of which are on the main Exeter-Tiverton-Minehead road.
Above EXBRIDGE (930245) canoeing is possible but not very popular. Local enquiries should be made to request access. Launching is possible at BRIDGETOWN (923332) but permission to pass downstream must be sought from the local gamekeeper, phone Winsford 300. At CHILLY BRIDGE (924317) the farmer is happy to allow launching as long as he is asked at Lower Stockham Farm, or the property nearest the access point The landlord of the Anchor Inn, EXBRIDGE (930245), is very friendly and permission is usually given for access/egress via the car park.
OAKFORD BRIDGE (919219) TO BOLHAM WEIR. Numerous access possibilities exist where the river runs next to the road, but no there are no formal agreements. The river in this section is mostly flat but moving, with no real obstacles. There is a reasonably straightforward weir at 943160, about ½ mile before Bolham Weir.
BOLHAM WEIR (948153) is the most popular starting point for the
popular 'Bolham to Bickleigh' run which involves six weirs and numerous modest
rapids. Access is either from the layby immediately by the weir or from a layby
100 metres up the A396 road in which case you will have a scramble down a muddy
bank. The weir is a nasty, steep concrete faced drop of about 1½ metres
which is a scrape at low flows but which has a severe stopper at high flows;
either portage on the right or shoot on the very extreme right. This weir is
popular with 'stopper bashers' as the water is usually only knee deep in the
stopper, making rescues fairly easy. After about ¼ mile the river turns
sharply left and goes under an arched bridge where it is not uncommon to find
trees blocking some or all of the arches.
This must be considered by group leaders, especially in high flows
when the current could easily sweep an unsuspecting paddler into the
obstruction. The river then levels out for about ½ mile as you pass the
start of the Exe Descent race and approach SALMON PONDS WEIR (949139). This is
NOT an access point. At low water the weir is best shot down the fish steps on
the left, but beware the 'hole' 20 metres below the steps which can catch
beginners out. At high water the main weir face is safest, but watch out for
obstructions at the top of the weir where foundations from a removed footbridge
remain.
The river continues under the new North Devon Link Road bridge and on for about 1¼ miles to RIVERSIDE WALK, TIVERTON (954126) where access/egress is possible. Parking is available in the nearby paying carpark or on the road, launch from riverside walkway above or below TIVERTON TOWN WEIR. This has a series of standing waves against the left hand wall at all but the lowest levels, as well as a couple of playing stoppers. It can be shot almost anywhere at most flows and is easy to inspect from the water or the bank. After a further ¼ mile is the small WALDRON'S WEIR (953120), the last access point before Bickleigh with on road parking and slipway for launching. This weir also usually provides plenty of opportunity for playing with stoppers or standing waves at most flows.
For the next 3 miles the river meanders slowly through a scenic valley towards BROKEN WEIR (941078), near Bickleigh. This weir is well named, being in a poor state of repair and regularly changing. Inspection is recommended, but the best shoots are usually in the centre or to the far left. Particular care should be taken to avoid the trees on the island below the weir, one of which is especially dangerous. Within ¼ mile is BICKLEIGH WEIR (937075) which is marked by a stone bridge carrying the A396. At very low flows this is best shot on the extreme right, at other flows it can be shot almost anywhere although there can be a nasty stopper at times. There is good access and egress on the left just below the bridge. The landlord of the Fisherman's Cott generally allows parking in the car park as long as he is asked first, as does the owner of Bickleigh Mill.
Below Bickleigh the river becomes far more meandering and less steep with only the weirs as obstacles or excitement, depending on your view! After 4½ miles you will find THORVERTON WEIR (935019), a steep weir which deserves respect. It can be shot on the left using the fish steps when levels are low, but is safest on the right when high, although inspection is recommended. There is on road parking and access on the right bank below the bridge which is 100 metres below the weir. There is no access via adjacent fields. Below here the river continues its meandering course towards Exeter via STOKE WOODS (923962). Limited parking is available in a small layby which allows access where the river meanders next to the A396. This is a useful starting point for a trip over the big weirs, Four Pynes, Cowley Bridge Steps and Flowerpots. (No nearer access to Four Pines or Cowley).
FOUR PINES WEIR (918963) has a very long sloping wall which is extremely dangerous at high flows due to a holding stopper. At anything above medium level the weir should be inspected from the left, which is also the side it should be shot on. At low flows there is a fish run which provides a good shoot.
A mile further the infamous COWLEY WEIR follows a fork in the channel, stay left and you will see a single arched road bridge which is immediately below this difficult drop. Opinions differ about the best route in high water, some prefer to take the steps down the middle, others rely on a shoot on the right; in either case there are stoppers which make this weir suitable only for stronger paddlers. There is a portage passage on the left above the weir, use it if in doubt.
About two miles further on is FLOWERPOTS WEIR (914923). This is the local name for the two weirs, otherwise known as Head and Blackaller Weirs. Head Weir is small and fairly straightforward, but a mistake here could put you in trouble for the second weir which is dangerous at medium and high flows and should be shot with caution preferably after inspection. Under such circumstances the extreme left is the only route to consider due to a deceptive, but lethal stopper on the right. You are now in the heart of Exeter; go under the two modern road bridges and you will come to a new housing development on the right which is where you will find Exeter Canoe Club and the Exeter Maritime Museum. There is plenty of parking here, and a launching ramp for access/egress. Most moving water canoeists finish here, but it is possible to shoot TREWS WEIR (924917) and SALMONPOOL WEIR (930909) before coming to tidal water. These weirs have the particular advantage of being open to canoeists throughout the year, making circular tours from Exeter to Topsham and back possible via the river and canal in summer. Beware of the second weir's stopper in high flows, it holds! We have an informal agreement with the fishermen here that canoeists will not play in the weir pool if fishermen are present, but will pass quietly by. Please help us to maintain our very good relationship with the owners by following this instruction and by showing courtesy to the anglers who are generally most happy to have a water sharing agreement with us.
Access is possible at Countess Weir where the river flows under the A379, and at numerous points where roads run close to thebanks of the estuary. The Exe estuary is quite exposed and should not be attempted by novices during windy conditions.
Exe Estuary Tour
This trail is designed as a round trip, the length of which can be can varied up to a maximum of approximately 12 miles depending on where you transfer from the river to the canal. The outward trip is on the River Exe, the return is on the Exeter Ship Canal. There are two weirs, both of which are shootable at normal levels, and the estuary may be very exposed in windy conditions. Obviously groups should plan this trip with regard to the ability of their paddlers and the river and weather conditions. There are no seasonal limitations for this trip, access is possible all year round and it can make a lovely one day circular trip in the summer. Before 1282 the Exe was tidal as far upstream as the present day site of Head Weir and ships could dock at the natural shelf around the Quay - our starting point. Isabella de Fortibus changed all that, when she built a barrier somewhere in the subsequently named Countess Wear area, thus diverting trade to Topsham, which she owned. Various efforts to relieve the situation were unsuccessful and so in 1563 a canal was built.
The starting point is the Quay (GR 922919) in Exeter. Keen viewers of the Onedin Line will immediately recognise the area around the Prospect Inn and the former Maritime Museum as being the "Liverpool" of that series. Here there is plenty of parking space and easy access to the water at several points. There is also a canoeing shop on the river-side. For any non-canoeists in the party there are some interesting craft shops close by and the city centre and Cathedral are within easy walking distance.
TREW'S WEIR (GR925915) is about ¼ mile downstream. On the left just before the weir is the Port Royal Pub, on the right is a channel which allows overspill of flood water. The weir, built in the 1860's to provide sufficient depth of water for the extension of the Exeter Canal, is shootable at most water levels. Even when the river is very low, a diagonal fish run will usually provide sufficient depth. Below the weir on the left is a new housing development on the site of a mill, built in 1780 as a cotton mill, which until recently used water power to drive its turbines. It has now undergoing redevelopment as has the cream washed building below the weir, dated 1774 and known as The Old Match Factory. Continuing the journey, the nursery gardens of the City Parks Department are passed on the left, (GR927913) the source of the many plants which often help the city to win prizes in Britain or Europe in bloom competitions. Herons are often seen perched in the trees on this flat, scenic section, before SALMON POOL WEIR (GR 931909)looms ahead (about ¾ mile after Trew's). A shoot is possible at most levels of water, either down the face or using the diagonal fish run. When the river is high beware of the strong holding stopper and tow back, which runs for most of the length of the weir. The weir pool and river below is affected by the tide and is an important salmon fishery. Relations with the fishermen are generally very good; if you ask them, permission will be given to pass quietly downstream, but please do not play in the weir pool if fishermen are in the area. If necessary, a short portage can be arranged along the right hand bank.
Below this weir the river can get very shallow during low tides, and it may be possible to see shoals of mullet feeding. The river sweeps around the rear of some very desirable residences before reaching COUNTESS WEAR BRIDGE, (GR 940894) which is about 2¾ miles from the start. The bridge can provide some excitement as at certain states of the tide there are strong eddies and standing waves downstream. For those who want to return to the start point it is possible to portage along the old Exeter By-Pass by egressing just before the bridge and carrying to the canal, but an easier portage is available 200 yards downstream on the right, over a narrow neck of land by the sewage works entrance, (GR946892) where there is a steep slip way. The small channels on the left hand bank, on either side of the bridge, were the site of a ship-building yard up to the 18th century. Today, it may be difficult to imagine, but vessels of up to 600 tons were built and launched here. As the shallow river was unsuitable for conventional launchings a system evolved whereby ships were raised on floating casks, chained to kegs and towed out to deeper waters.
The river carries on to pass under the motorway bridge, (GR 956889) through the mooring and reed beds to reach TOPSHAM, (GR 9688). Topsham has all the facilities of a small town, including several very fine pubs. There are splendid panoramic views across the Haldon Hills and the estuary, particularly from the church steps beside the public slipway. Many of the buildings and walks in this vicinity are built from materials imported as ballast in ships trading into the river, and follow foreign styles of architecture. Here another portage to the canal is possible using the passenger ferry slipway on the right hand bank, (GR 962880).
Leaving Topsham the estuary now begins to widen and the deep water channel starts to meander. The most direct route may not be the quickest and it is advisable to stay in the deep water channel indicated by the buoys and marker poles. The mud exposed at low tide is very deep and dirty! Eventually the channel sweeps towards the right bank and the deep water entrance to the canal at TURF LOCK, (GR 963860) is visible. Disembark onto the "quay" at a convenient point and carry the short distance past the lock to the wide mooring basin of the canal. You are now about 6 miles from the centre of Exeter. Turf is an isolated spot and can only be reached on foot or by water. The Hotel is substantially as designed by James Green when he extended Trew's original Canal in 1823. Pause to look around, or for refreshment, the pub serves excellent food and Turf makes an ideal picnic spot; it may be possible to camp here if you enquire in the pub.
The return journey to Exeter is made entirely on the Exeter Ship Canal. The first 1¾ miles runs almost parallel to the estuary on the right, until it passes under a wooden bridge opposite Topsham. Here a footpath from the Swan's Nest Inn at Exminster crosses to reach the passenger ferry slipway. After a further ½ mile is the towering motorway bridge and shortly after that is the mooring berth of the 'SW2'. This vessel makes twice-weekly trips out into the sea, five miles off Exmouth, to dump sludge from the sewage works; thankfully EU legislation means that it will soon have to stop this. Beyond, the canal opens out to be almost lake-like. On the left are the remains of a wharf serving the lime kilns which are still just visible in the undergrowth. The canal narrows again until, about 1 mile after the motorway, we reach the crossing point of the Exeter By-Pass at Countess Weir, (GR940895). Here are two bridges, the old swing bridge and a newer lifting bridge opened in 1971.
At DOUBLE LOCKS (GR933901) is another Inn, dating from 1701. This is locally famed for its excellent real ales and food and it is especially pleasant on a summer's evening when jazz bands and other entertainment are often to be found. The bar staff are used to seeing customers in canoe clothing; formal dress is definitely not required! As with the Turf, the publican is often prepared to allow camping in the grounds, but it may be best to check first as there are often groups booked in during the summer. The canal now skirts the edge of the Marsh Barton Trading Estate and away in front is a fine view of the city and its cathedral. Just past the Welcome Inn (GR922917) it is possible to branch right to rejoin the river, providing the lock gate is open. Alternatively continue into the canal basin. Here are many moored boats and Exeter Canoe Club has a very impressive clubhouse on the left bank. There are several places where you can obtain refreshments.
Further details and other river information available from:
The BCU Regional Access Officer
Adam Box
Roydon
Alexandra
Rd
Crediton
Devon
EX17 2DZ
01363 773793